FAQ’s

Ductless mini-split heat pump Installation FAQ

How long does a typical installation take?

A typical ductless installation where the indoor unit is mounted above a second floor stair landing and the outdoor unit is mounted on wall brackets takes approximately 5 hours. Installation times can vary greatly based on difficulty, heights, and number of indoor units to install.
Our technicians usually arrive anywhere between 9:00 and 10:00 am to start the workday.

Typical Crew Sizes

Typical work crews consist of one certified Red Seal HVAC-R professional and one HVAC apprentice. However, there may be more crews on-site depending on the difficulty of the installation.

Cleanliness of Installation

Before any work is started, clean drop sheets are placed from the front door to the location of the indoor unit to facilitate movement of our crews. After the exterior hole is made, all dust from the bricks and drywall are swept and vacuumed both inside and outside. All of the garbage created during the installation is taken back by the technician to be disposed or recycled in an environmentally friendly manner.

Noise

During installation, one 3″ hole has to be cored through the wall. This takes approximately 20 minutes and will create moderate noise throughout the home. After this core, noise is kept to a minimum.

Electrical Shut-down

Most of our units require two spaces on the electrical panel. During tie-in, the main power will be shut down to the entire home for about 30 minutes.

Payment

Typically settlement is made after the installation is completed on the same day. We accept cheques, cash, and email money transfers.

Training

After installation, the technician will familiarize the homeowner on the remote controllers operation, the units features, settings and required maintenance.

Air Exchangers FAQ

Why do I need an AIR EXCHANGER IN MY HOME?

Because our modern homes are airtight, the air is laden with moisture and pollutants created from the daily activities of the household.

So we need to:

  • Provide oxygen for occupants since people deplete oxygen as they breathe. In a reasonably airtight home with no ventilation you would feel the effects of that in quite short order.
  • Remove contaminants – because along with the toxins emitted by the human body (ammonia, benzene, carbon monoxide and methane to name but a few), chemicals in building materials and furnishings continue to off-gas for many years after installation.
  • Remove the excess humidity generated by normal human activity in order to ensure building durability and efficiency in heating.

The installation of an air exchanger inside the house will remove stale and polluted air from the house to the outside and replace it by an equivalence of fresh air.

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN AN HRV AND AN ERV?

Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV):

TYPICALLY USED IN COLDER CLIMATES

It’s a system that uses the heat in stale exhaust air to preheat incoming fresh air. This reduces the energy required to bring outside air up to ambient room temperature.

The heat recovery ventilator (HRV) is the proper choice in colder climates where there is excess humidity during the heating season, since it can eliminate it.

The HRV keeps the home supplied with a steady flow of fresh outdoor air. As stale, warm air is expelled, the heat recovery core warms the incoming fresh, colder air before it is distributed throughout the home.

The result is a constant supply of fresh air, no unpleasant drafts and greater home comfort.

Energy Recovery Ventilator (ERV):

TYPICALLY USED IN WARMER CLIMATES

Energy Recovery Ventilators (ERV) are typically recommended for use in warmer climates where it is desired to remove humidity from incoming fresh air. While not a dehumidifier, ERV systems transfer moisture from incoming, humid air to the stale indoor air that is being vented to the outside.  The ERV recovers heat (like an HRV); however, it also recuperates the energy trapped in humidity, which greatly improves the overall recovery efficiency.

In conditioned homes, when it is more humid outside than inside, the ERV limits the amount of humidity coming into your home.

For homes using a humidifier, with low humidity level in winter, the ERV limits the amount of humidity expelled from your home.

Central Heat Pump – FAQ

WHAT IS A HEAT PUMP AND HOW DOES IT WORK?

When it’s cold outside a heat pump extracts this outside heat and transfers it inside. When it’s warm outside, it reverses directions and acts like an air conditioner, removing heat from your home. One advantage of a heat pump is that it moves heat instead of generating heat, giving you more energy efficiency.

What is the most important component of a heat pump?

A typical heat pump installation consists of two parts: an indoor unit and an outdoor unit. The indoor unit is called an air handler. The outdoor unit looks exactly like a central air conditioner in both size and appearance and contains the compressor (which is like the “engine” of heat pump)

Are heat pumps gas or electric?

Most electric heat pumps are significantly more energy efficient when compared to a gas operated furnace. Installation of a heat pump system usually costs less than the installation of a furnace.

HEAT PUMP VS ELECTRIC FURNACE, NATURAL GAS FURNACE, FUEL OIL FURNACE AND PROPANE FURNACE?

In general (but not always) the heat pump becomes the heater of choice since it can reduce electricity use and is more energy efficient and economical than an electric furnace or fuel-bases furnaces. Here’s why:

Furnaces generally use two different energy sources, either fossil fuels (natural gas, fuel oil or propane) that are burned to produce heat, or electricity that generates heat with internal heating elements.

Electric furnaces employ internal blowers that move air over anywhere from three to seven heated “elements”. Like other furnace types, electric furnaces rely on ductwork to distribute heat throughout the home.

Many duel furnaces use some form of electric furnace. For example, an oil-electric furnace uses the electric elements during the majority of the furnace use, while the oil fuel is used during peak heating times in order to lower costs.

In addition, electric furnaces often are paired with heat pumps, air handlers or added as the heating component to an air conditioner.

Heat pumps are powered by electricity, so they do not require any sort of utility connection beyond standard residential electrical power.  They also do not produce any carbon monoxide and doesn’t present any danger of fuel ignition or explosion.  Heat pumps usually consist of an indoor unit and an outdoor unit.  A heat pump is an energy efficient way to cool your home in the summer and heat in the winter.

DUCTLESS MINI-SPLIT HEAT PUMPS VS. CENTRAL HEAT PUMP?

A Ductless mini split heat pump is a device that can heat and cool your home or office.

You often hear them being referred as Mini split or ductless heat pump or ductless mini-split heat pump.

Ductless heat pumps (mini splits) make good retrofit add-ons to houses with “non-ducted” heating systems, they can also be a good choice for room additions where extending or installing distribution ductwork is not feasible. Mini splits heat pumps have no ducts, so they avoid the energy losses associated with the ductwork of central forced air systems. It has an indoor and an outdoor unit. Each indoor unit is placed with the space that it is conditioning/heating.  Often one indoor unit is used for every one or two rooms in a house or building.  This results in great room-by-room control of your climate.  Since the indoor unit contains a small fan, this can add noise to an indoor space but people typically will get used to it and the energy efficiency of a ductless heat pump (mini split heat pump) outweighs the noise.

  • Conventional heat pumps typically have one outdoor unit for every indoor unit. A conventional heat pump places the indoor unit (air coil) inside the ductwork. As long as the outdoor unit has the capacity, it is easy to “add-on” to the heating and cooling needs of an existing house or building.

Heat pumps have to be installed by a certified heating, ventilation, air conditioning and refrigeration (HVAC) technicians, who also must have an Ozone Depleting Substances Permit to handle the refrigerants. Aside from that, a licensed electrician must do the hook-up as well, and if any of these qualifications isn’t met, the installation is illegal.

Beware, people are trying to cut costs by going with cheaper quotes from questionable companies, and when problems crop up, they have to scramble to find someone credible to fix it.  Your warranty is only as good as your installer.

An over-sized ductless mini split heat pump can be very bad and can cause greater energy costs than a conventional heat pump.  Be sure to choose an ENERGY STAR® compliant unit and hire an installer that is certified in the HVAC industry. The installer must correctly size each indoor unit and determine the best location for its installation. Oversized or incorrectly located air handlers can result in short cycling, which wastes energy and does not provide proper temperature or humidity control and can be harder on your system and might ends its life prematurely.

WHAT IS SEER, HSPF AND COP RATING?

COP (Coefficient Of Performance) The efficiency of a heat pump is measured by the coefficient of performance The COP is the energy output of the heat pump divided by the amount of electricity needed to run the unit. The higher the the more efficient the unit.

HSPF (Heating Seasonal Performance Factor) is the measure of efficiency for heating.  In the Martimes we use it for the fall, winter & spring.

SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) is the measure of efficiency for cooling (summer season/air conditioning season)

The Job isn't done, until it's done right!